Biñán: The Industrial City of CALABARZON

The once iconic old town plaza. Despite attempts at modernity, it has lost its verve with the destruction of the Alberto Mansion, itself a timeless landmark in the area.

Any mention of Biñán will invoke images of José Rizal as a young homesick student, of the historic and controversial Alberto Mansion, of the delectable Puto Biñán, and of course, Splash Island. To history buffs such as myself, Biñán reminds me of a quaint town with a regal past, its opulent sector de mestizos filled with stylish ancestral houses, and its status as a major producer of rice and sugar cane in the Southern Tagalog region.

Then as now, Biñán stands as an economic heavyweight in La Laguna Province. In the early days, it was already known for its various enterprises and was a major rice producer. Its oldest barrios were also famous for their respective industries: Barrio de la Paz for its quality footwear; Barrio Malabán for its fishing endeavors; Canlálay for its special pinípig (crisped rice snack); Barrio Platero for its cloth hats and caps, and; Barrio San Vicente for its Puto Biñán, the famous Lagunense rice cake topped with cheese that is produced using largely traditional methods. Also, the manufacture of baquiâ (spelled nowadays as bakya) or "wooden clogs" was for many years a trademark product of Biñán. But with the loss of a market, the town focused on other products: fine and synthetic leather sandals and slippers.

Laguna Technopark Incorporated (photo courtesy of Ayala Land Premier).

Today, these barrios still produce the local products mentioned above. But the whole town now has morphed into a bustling first-class component city (it has been so since 2010) and is a choice modern industrial zone. Because of Biñán's industrious history, it is aptly known today as "The Industrial City of CALABARZON" (abbreviation for CAvite, La LAguna, BAtangas, Rizal, QueZON). With a land area of 43.50 km², Biñán is host to many well-known multinational companies. It has also been the choice site of property developers and entertainment venues as well as top educational institutions, thus continuing Biñán's legacy as a provider of undisputed quality education know since Rizal's time (no wonder he was sent there for his early schooling).

Laguna International Industrial Park (photo taken from the industrial park's official website).

Before the Spaniards came, the area comprising the Biñán of today was part of an ancient settlement called Tabuco (now Cabuyao). Ancient Biñán did not have a large settlement that resembled today's concept of a town, but it was inhabited sparsely by Tagalog natives. Life then was primitive as the people lived off fish, game, and fruits from the forest. With the arrival of the West, new tools and concepts were introduced which provided a cultural and spiritual revolution in Biñán, thus uplifting social life and thinking. In 1644, the place was turned into a hacienda by the Dominicans. Known as Hacienda de San Isidro de Biñán, it was dedicated to the planting of sugar cane with the smaller remaining land area reserved for the town and its barrios. An irrigation system, a large farmhouse complete with stables, a well, and an orchard were built. By 1747, Biñán was already existing as a separate barrio. And by 1782, it was already functioning as a town.

Iglesia de San Isidro Labrador. Constructed in 1690 and was finished four years later. Throughout the centuries, numerous man-made and natural disasters have altered the features of this church.

Yeyette inspecting the original image of Saint Isidore the Laborer. With her is Gian Litan of the Parish Youth Ministry of San Isidro.

The number of mestizos de sangley and mestizos de español in the town grew not only in number but in societal significance, so much that by the beginning of the nineteenth century, an Augustinian missionary observed that much of the town was in the hands of the affluent. The obvious imprint of this wealth can well be observed along Calle Jacobo Gonzales which runs at the left side of the town church: the grand old Philippine homes we affectionately call as ancestral houses of bahay na bató.

At the garden outside this house once stood the small school where Rizal had studied as a child. We've been inside the vicinity a decade ago (Krystal and Momay were our only children back then). But during our visit last summer, nobody was home to let us in.

Calle Jacobo Gonzales. There are many other grand old houses throughout Biñán, even outside the población. But  it is on this street as well as in Calle Pedro Paterno where you will find the largest and most stylish. Both streets comprise and area which was once known as sector de mestizos.

The Rizal Monument in Biñán's old town plaza (right in front of the ruins of the Alberto Mansion) is said to be the most beautiful. You be the judge.

One edifice that is worth mentioning about Biñán is, to my observation, not always being mentioned whenever the city's history is taught. And this edifice is the Church of Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage. During Rizal's stay in Biñán, this small temple was only a chapel and was just two years in existence. Unknown to many, this is the old chapel where he used to frequent. In his diary, Rizal wrote that during his last days in Biñán, he would walk from his place (somewhere in the población) to this chapel —skipping past the town church of Saint Isidore the Laborer— to pray. This chapel had a special affinity to Rizal's heart: his mother, Doña Teodora Alonso, was a devotee of Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage in Antipolo, Morong (now Rizal Province). Rizal once traveled to Antipolo with his father to fulfill his mother's pledge — she made a promise to the Blessed Virgin (while she was still pregnant with Rizal) that she would make him go to the church in Antipolo one day to pay homage and as a thanksgiving if her pregnancy becomes a safe one. And so during his homesick days in Biñán, Rizal somehow felt at home in this chapel which is the namesake of that other historic church north of Laguna de Bay.

Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Paz y Buenviaje, constructed in 1867.

The original image of Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage which belongs to this historic chapel-turned-church.

We'll be featuring more about this church in a future blogpost.

Krystal and Yeyette with the caretakers of the church (Richie, Christian, and Aling Cora). Thank you for the quick tour! We learned quite a lot!

Not far from Rizal's favorite church is another forgotten landmark: the farola or lighthouse, or whatever remains of it...

The forgotten Spanish-era lighthouse of Biñán. Sadly, it is now surrounded by illegal settlers. Nobody there even knows its importance nor why it is there in the first place.

This old structure is a few meters away from the lakeshore. A long time ago, an old port used to exist near the lighthouse. Ferries to and from Manila and other parts of La Laguna Province carried people and cargo across the lake. It was this same port which was used by a young José Rizal that ferried him back to his home in Calambâ after a brief stay in Biñán for his early schooling.

My wife feeling the old steel support of the lighthouse. Touching history.

But before we bore you to death with too much history instead of travel, let me and my family stop here and instead share to you our photos of our most recent visit there (April 19), as we feasted our eyes on the legacy left by the Biñán of olden times. And we are sorry to say this, but that could probably be our final visit to Biñán proper. Because it really pains us to see a neglected, nay, defiled, Alberto Mansion.

With various kids in Barrio Malabán which lies at the lakeshore. We found them flying kites while enjoying the very strong afternoon breeze!

We had freshly baked Puto Biñán here before going home.

Be that as it may, Biñán, especially its heritage and true identity, will always remain in our hearts. Not the industrial city but the Biñán of our forefathers is the one to be cherished the most.