Water fun in Lumbán!

During afternoons, the población (town proper) of Lumbán in La Laguna Province seems to be a ghost town because of its literal sleepiness. The townsfolk are mostly quiet, the streets desolate. At least, that was how the place impressed upon Krystal when she and her schoolmates visited it last year on a religious trip. However, every last Sunday of January, the whole town proper turns into a virtual water warzone filled with sacred merriment! This is the culmination of the novena (nine-day pious devotion) to their patron San Sebastián Mártir who is also the patron of athletes, soldiers, the plague-stricken, and archers. Speaking of archers, he was one of the early Christians who was sentenced to death. His execution was gruesome: he was shot with arrows. That is why he is commonly depicted in art and literature as being tied to a post (or tree) impaled with arrows.

Picturesque rice fields with long-legged white birds (egrets, I think) still dominate the landscape of Lumbán. Beyond this farm is the great expanse of Laguna de Bay, the country's largest lake.

But Saint Sebastián survived all this. According to stories handed down from generation to generation, he was rescued and healed by Santa Irene de Roma. It can easily be imagined how at first she cleaned Saint Sebastián's wounds with water. And when the image of arrow-impaled San Sebastián was first brought to Lumbán by the Spanish friars to be venerated by the natives, the latter must have certainly taken pity. After all, many native pre-Filipinos were icon worshippers. But never before had they been introduced to the idea of images of people who died or suffered for the faith that they offered to a God who became flesh to save humanity from its sins. Christianity was a culture shock of sorts to forest-dwelling simple folk.

That first meeting between a shocked bunch of Tagalog natives and the arrow-pierced image of San Sebastián could explain the Lumbeño tradition of splashing water to the latter, so that the pain caused by the arrows would somehow subside. This idea of water could have also given birth to the fluvial procession called Lupi Ni San Sebastián (sometimes referred to as Lupi de San Sebastián Mártir) every final Sunday of January ("lupì" in Tagalog means "to fold" because the novena to San Sebastián "folds up" or ends on that day). During this event, various images of the patron saint from all over town, including the main icon at the parish church, are displayed in colorfully decorated boats called casquitos which sail all around the murky expanse of the Lumbán River. Once brought to land, they line up in a lively procession to the beat of a marching band as devotees merrily splash each other with water along the streets of the town proper while firecrackers explode in the air. No person joining this unique procession is left dry.

Our kids really had a great time here especially since it was their first time to play with water guns! And with total strangers! That's the best part of it. You can splash and spray people here with water! Everybody's game! ¡Ualáng picón! Indeed, during the lupi, all Lumbeños became children!

Nevertheless, the piety of the people are still intact inspite of the noise and the wet merry-making. I have seen how many of them splash water to each icon and wiping them with clothing. Some are even kissing them. And no, this is not idol worship. This is simply Catholicism at its finest and most Philippine.

A handful of bahay na bató houses still line the streets of the town proper, but most date only from the U.S. period.

The town was already in a festive mood when we got there early in the morning.

Iglesia de San Sebastián Mártir.

Lumbán (pronounced with the digraph [ŋ] at the end, or "lumbáng") is said to be one of the oldest towns not only in La Laguna but in the whole country as well. Tagalog tribesmen were already living there prior to the Spanish arrival (this is evidenced by the discovery of the Laguna Copperplate Inscription at the mouth of the Lumbán River). It is said that Lumbán got its name from the lumbán tree (Aleurites moluccana), said to be abundant during the early days. Today, three lumbán trees can still be found at the town plaza between the church façade and the Lumbán River.

Hispanization took place when the Franciscan friars arrived in the area in the late 16th century to spread the Christian faith. The celebrated missionaries Fray Juan de Plasencia and Fr. Diego de Oropesa laid the foundations of the future parish and town of Lumbán. San Sebastián Mártir was chosen to be the patron saint, but for some reason they did not change the name Lumbán.

An ecstatic Yeyette at the grass-carpeted plaza. Behind her are two lumbán trees. It is said that the town got its name from this tree which used to flourish in the area. Behind Yeyette and the trees is the Filipino-style municipal hall.

In front of the church.

This church was first constructed in 1586 by Fray Pedro Bautista (yes, boys and girls, it's the priest-turned-saint himself), the town's first parish priest. Completed in 1600, Iglesia de San Sebastián is the oldest stone church in all of La Laguna.

On top of San Sebastián Church. That's the Sierra Madre range at the background. Somewhere on top of it lies Caliraya Lake (photo taken by my jittery daughter) which this municipality shares with Cavinti.

Aside from the religio-cultural event that is the lupì, Lumbán is best known for its fine embroidery of jusi and pineapple fibers, thus earning it the nickname "The Embroidery Capital of the Philippines". It is also home to some of the province's most exotic delicacies such as white cheese made from pure carabao's milk locally known as "quesong putî", and "guinataáng hipon" or miniscule shrimps that are cooked to creaminess in coconut milk.

A trip to Lumbán would not be complete without partaking of its unique delicacy: guinataáng hipon! It looks weird at first, but you'll keep on looking for it once you've tasted it! Here's Yeyette with With Aling Perly, the proprietor and cook of Perly's Ginataang & Atchara.

The fluvial procession at the Lumbán River.

The venerated image of San Sebastián Mártir, patron saint of Lumbán.

¡Lahát dito nagbabasaan! ¡Ualáng picón! And dressed only in our "pambahay" clothing, we felt as if we are living here, and all the people we met during our walk around town were our neighbors. Some even offered us food! Very hospitable and friendly folks!

That guy's fully cocked and loaded!

Here I am spraying water at everything that moves as Momay makes a direct hit at my eardrum!

Our naked little Juanito firing away at little Lumbeños.

Yeyette splashing water at the miraculous image of San Sebastián.

With all these religious and cultural insights and culinary delights, sightseeing could be Lumbán's most uncelebrated blessing. But if one goes there (from Metro Manila via Pagsanján), one will immediately notice its beautiful terrain. The coastal area to the west is rich with Laguna de Bay's resources. To the south lie the ecotourism havens of Pagsanján and upland Cavinti. Going to the east, the land slopes upward following the contours of the Sierra Madre (in fact, much of Lumbán's territory is situated in that mountain range) and is bordered by the municipality of Maúban in Tayabas (now Quezon) Province. And right between the lake and the mountain range are picturesque fields that yield some of the most bountiful harvests. On top of the Sierra Madre lies the famous and scenic Lake Caliraya which it shares with Cavinti (this lake is popular among water sports enthusiasts). To the east is Kalayaan (combined from Loñgos, San Juan, and San Antonio), equally mountainous as Lumbán. And the thick forests and lake breeze near residential areas make Lumbán's air healthy and fresh.

So why not try visiting Lumbán not for anything else but for Lumbán itself? The town's unique mix of nature and culture should merit a spot on your next out-of-town itinerary. If you want to try something new, do it in Lumbán!

Click here to view more photos of our Lumbán trip last Sunday! And please like us on Facebook!

♥L♥A♥F♥A♥M♥I♥L♥I♥A♥V♥I♥A♥J♥E♥R♥A♥

TRIVIA: Assisted by Fr. Juan de Santa Marta, Fr. Bautista established in Lumbán what was to be considered as the Philippine's first academy of music. This school (probably within the convent beside the church) attracted young boys in town as well as neighboring areas such as Páquil which turned out to become the province's music capital during that time. Around 400 boys were taught liturgical hymns and how to play various musical instruments.

(Note: This will be the last time that our blog will feature a TRIVIA section since I noticed that each blogpost itself is already "trivia material", thus making the section almost a nonessential.)