Mt. Abra de Ilog: the green, rocky citadel of Mindoro Occidental

My very first mountain hike happened more than a decade ago. And it was in Abra de Ilog, Mindoro Occidental, my wife Yeyette's hometown. I was barely 21, and I had a couple of kids to accompany me (Yeyette's cousins, actually, who are now all grown up).

Monte Abra de llog. Photo taken from the balcony of Yeyette's ancestral home last 12 September 2011.

Flashback to the summer of 2001: the moment my eyes laid upon Abra de Ilog from its port, the first thing I noticed were the mountain ranges. I have never seen so much green heights in my life! There were mountain ranges everywhere. Beyond the small port, no houses, no town, could be seen. It's all mountains, hills, and forests. Before we disembarked from the ferry, I asked Yeyette: "where in the world is your house?" She didn't tell me that we had to travel another twenty minutes from the port to the town proper via tricycle. I was to learn days later, when I had already reached the peak of Monte Abra de Ilog, that the Población was tucked in between two rows of scenic mountain ranges. The first one, to the west, faces the Verde Island Passage. The second one, to the east, divides Mindoro Occidental from Mindoro Oriental.

Abra de Ilog is strategically located between these two green-tinged cordilleras.

Casa Atienza, Yeyette's ancestral home at the Población, faces the eastern mountain range that includes Mount Abra de Ilog. The house has an unbalustered balcony where one could have a perfect vantage point to view the mountain range. It was there where I, as a young father to Krystal, have spent many countless hours observing every nook and cranny of the irregularly shaped massifs. Upon first glance, I thought the mountain ranges were the victims of a blatant case of deforestation because there were not much trees up there, only grass and scraggly rock formations. There is even a huge scar which I first attributed to what I thought was once a mining area. I was mistaken. The peaks of the mountain ranges turned out to be rocky, impossible thus for a small forest to even survive. The huge scar, according to residents, has been there even before they were born; I therefore suspect that it's a huge fault or —heaven forbid— the crater of a long-dormant volcano.

That part of Yeyette's ancestral home —the balcony— has been my favorite part of the house because I've never lived that close to a mountain. I grew up for the most part in urban dwellings, that is why Abra de Ilog's natural serenity was something refreshingly new for me. It ignited a spark from within which has never since extinguished.

Each day of that memorable summer of 2001, I was feeding my eyes with Mount Abra de Ilog's greenish scenery delights. One time, I noticed a man-made structure towards the north near the summit. It turned out to be, by the looks of it, a radio tower of some sort. The thought intrigued me. If a telecommunications tower can be set up from that elevation, then it's not impossible to hike that mountain! So I asked around what that tower was all about. The answer I got was that it was a cell site (meant to create a cell in a cellular network). Yeyette's Tito Raf told me that he was part of a group of laborers who constructed it during the 90s. Yeyette's cousins, most of who were still in elementary school, said that they have all gone up there many times. They then asked me if I wanted to join them for a fun climb — excitement filled me like strong water from a faucet filling a dry bucket. I was about to experience my first mountain hike! Me, who have grown accustomed to city traffic and buildings and concrete roads and polluted air!

We set out towards the tower. When we reached the structure by midday, I remember having seen a caretaker who never even bothered looking at us. So we climbed towards the rooftop of the two-story building beside the tower. I also remember having seen a logo of "Digitel" there. From the rooftop, we had a perfect 360º view of Abra de Ilog and even the Verde Island Passage. It was a tiring experience; my legs turned rubber the day after. But it was a fun one nevertheless, an exhilarating climb — my very first! I remember how all exhaustion had left my body once I've reached the top and have seen the world below me. So that's what mountain climbing is all about!

After a few days, I climbed that mountain again, but on my own, with the goal of going beyond the tower, to reach the mountain's highest peak. Armed with a bolo from Yeyette's grandfather (may he rest in peace), I was dressed in a long-sleeved camiso de chino to protect me from the sun. That climb turned out to be the most adventurous part of my life. I left before the sun was up, reached several peaks, not knowing back then that what I was up against was not a single mountain but a group of mountains. And I had seen stuff that I was never able to see again — I encountered a dense and eerie forest far below me, gigantic, lifeless trees, and even a "mini garden" with low grass and exotic flowers of vibrant colors.

But I got lost along the way when it got real cloudy. Then it drizzled when it was past five in the afternoon. I was very afraid: I could see the town proper below, but a huge forest was between us. I might not survive the night if I go straight through it. Fortunately, as I was desperately looking for a trail that will send me home, I saw a Mañguián lad who gave me directions back to the tower. That's why when I got home, it was already dusk. Yeyette, carrying an infant Krystal, cried when she saw me by the door, and Tito Val scolded me out of concern. I was filled with dirt and mud. My long-sleeved shirt didn't protect me from getting sunburned. I had scratches and dried blood on both arms. The bolo which I borrowed from Yeyette's grandfather was already gone — I lost it in a forested area up in the mountain where I slipped on an incline towards what seemed to be a quicksand of some sort; I got away when I held onto some bushes and vines.

It was one of the greatest things that I have ever done in my life! Since then, whenever we go to Abra de Ilog, I make sure to climb it, but with a companion, usually Yeyette's cousins. My last climb there was on 29 March 2006 (Red's will be familiar with the date; but no, this mountain is totally safe from any communist or military activity).

Fast forward to April 4, just a few weeks ago. Krystal is already a dalaga, and my son Mómay is nearing 12. If a decade ago Yeyette's cousins were able to accompany me up the mountain at such a young age, I believed that my children —except for Jefe, Juanito, and Junífera Clarita, of course— could tag along. Actually, we've been planning on it for a long time now.

We set off a few minutes past seven in the morning with Yeyette's teenage cousin John-John, bringing along with us a couple of gallons of water and several pieces of bread filled with scrambled eggs prepared by Yeyette for nourishment. Since it was to be Krystal and Mómay's first time to climb, our goal was to simply reach the tower, then go home by lunchtime.

Can you see the tower? That's where we're headed.

The hike starts right here.

¡Ang taás na namin!

My kids surprised me because we reached the tower in just an hour and a couple of minutes. Mómay never even showed signs of weariness. It was simply an exciting experience for both, and it gave me pure joy to see them both overjoyed.

The next thing I noticed is that there was a second tower. A new one. I never noticed that from below. And there was already an electrical line from the town all the way to the new tower. So much has changed since the last time I climbed the place. Nevertheless, the place is still forested. Nature wasn't harmed, just the way we nature lovers want such places to be.

At the old, deserted building of Abra de Ilog's first radio mast and tower. This cell site stands at an altitude of 1,130 feet above sea level. Nobody else was here but us. The people over at the new tower which lies just a few meters away never even bothered us.

After eating our báon at the rooftop, we decided to climb some more beyond the tower.

The sun may be up high, but it's already cold up here! At left is Barrio Uauà (where Matabang River drains) and the Port of Abra de Ilog.

Facing the wide expanse of the Verde Island Passage. The cool breeze from that huge body of water is upon us!

The jagged, grassy peaks of Mount Abra de Ilog. They seem to be near, but they're about a kilometer or two away from where this photo was taken.

The town proper is far away below! On the other side are the mountain ranges of Burburuñgan. Beyond those peaks is Monte Halcón and the province of Mindoro Oriental.

We kept on walking till we reached an elevation of about 1,400 feet above sea level. But we had to go because Krystal was getting weary. Understandable, since it's her first climb. But she and Mómay are still raring to go for more climbs after Mount Abra de Ilog. This mountain from their mom's incredible home town has inspired them to conquer more peaks in the future the way it has inspired me more than a decade ago.

I hope to bring the rest of the family up there one day.

*F*I*L*I*P*I*N*O* e*S*C*R*I*B*B*L*E*S*

There's a new mountain destination in Abra de Ilog called "Cruz Na Parang". According to those who have already climbed there, the peak is much higher compared to that of Mount Abra de Ilog. The starting point is in Barrio Lumangbayan. I'll certainly be writing more about it once we've hiked it on our next visit to Abra de Ilog. In the meantime, click here for the complete photo album of our Mount Abra de Ilog fun climb! ¡Hasta la vista!